27th february 2012
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February 27, 2012
Hi all, authentic surfers
It's vacation time for your favorite instructors. While Mikael, happy new dad decided to stay in France to carry his family duties and enjoy the cold winter swells of the South West
I take the opportunity offered by a friend of Seignosse, Joko, captain of the Sama Sama boat (locally built) charter surfing in Indonesia, very warm and comfortable, 20m, of exploring the waves almost virgin islands Moluccas. These islands are located between Irian Jaya and the Philippines, and exposed to swells of the Pacific. I go along with seven friends of Seignosse and Biarritz.
After an arduous journey on the company Saudi Airlines, cheap but very uncomfortable (I'd advise against it strongly), we arrive at Ternate, punctured but happy to embark on this adventure. Our first destination: a small right into a pretty bay surrounded by several volcanoes erupting. We set legs on these small waves easily in a mystical setting, and set course on "confeties" wave spotted on Google Earth and named by Vinz. When we arrive, the excitement was at its height. A perfect left of 1.50m wraps around a small beautiful island. We put ourselves in the water and spend several hours surfing these amazing waves in paradise. We live the dream of every surfer ... a magical moment.
The next day we return to the sea to our final destination: the island of Morotail and wave known as Serenade. Along the way, we pause for a long surf left very fun to 1m20, and make an overnight stop later in a small Catholic village (minority community in Indonesia), we take the opportunity to stretch our legs in the jungle and visit the village. Presence of a left again at very high potential, unfortunately very windy. We spend the evening on board with a host of trade came arrack (local liquor), which will carry barter Wayan, our Balinese chef (oh, those sailors!). The people we meet during our journey are incredibly nice and breathe the joy of living. They live in villages far away from each other, accessible only by sea The mobile phone has not yet reached them and appreciate their simplicity.
The next day: head Morotai. Almost reached their destination, we came across a line of 2m, perfect and very long, but making a big slab. That is to say, it digs from the take off from below and is very violent, with little water on the coral. Caution! Vinz, although very active on this session, hits the reef with the head - luckily without too many pains. For my part, I will have the chance to have a deep tube. We baptize this spot "Butterfly Shadow". We then Serenade to a short distance away. Again, does not laugh. A magnificent left a good 2m shatters violently on the reef. The wave looks like a Teahupoo. We're all intimidated, but can not resist venturing on this incredible wave. The show is amazing, magical colors ... Joko, the captain and excellent surfing, will be the only one to reach the tuber. For my part, I will take three waves, happy and successful without falling kiss the reef. The evening will be hosted spirited discussion following the incredible day that we just experienced. Gathered around yet another delicious meal cooked by Wayan that, well, could claim to work in a restaurant star, we are delighted to each of his dishes.
The next day we surf "village reform" in front of the village of Sopi, small right again Slaby, but long and fun. We visit the village, and remain in the corner a few days in anticipation of a big swell so long announced. Unfortunately, the swell is slow to return, and onshore wind begins to blow. We spend our last days on this boat trip to fishing parties. Moreover, thanks to Vinz, we will eat delicious barracuda sashimi (thank you again Wayan). We return to Ternates head full of memories.
I then went on Bali, history of my recover. And there, disappointment: the island has yet developed, the last corner of the south of the island where you could still see the green were razed to make way for huge resorts. Traffic is so dense that it's hell to get on it. The Balinese themselves, known for their legendary joie de vivre, slowly starting to lose the smile and look at the jaded eye of a Western.
I am eager to go to Lombok, where I am now. The beauty of the island is still intact - phew! -, And Sasaks (inhabitants of Lombok) are equal to themselves: warm, wild, friendly and happy!
Next destination: Nias and the Mentawai.
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november, the 22nd
Hi everybody,
What an automn! If the summer has not beaten the record of sunshine and temperatures, July's tourist can confirm this, we're having now a south stream which's giving us an "Indian summer".
The authentic riders from All Saints'surfcamp can testify. Apart from two half gloomy days , the sun, temperatures, waves and good humor have been de rigueur for this 100% surfing week. These same students who have pushed your monitors to water one difficult bad weather day. The other day, we have been to three sessions in the day ..... what a motivation, it was really fun. We have surfed the waves of the south beach of Hossegor, Hendaye, and the Côte des Basques in Biarritz. Note we also visit the shaping room Surf Odyssey where Tom Parrish, great master shaper from Hawaii, was in the process of "giving birth to" a board in front of our guests.
A wonderfull time, thank you all!
Otherwise, the autumn still warm and sunny. True to this season, the swells are following one after the other, watered by beautiful days of offshore wind ... great!
Big up to Michael, the happy new Morgan's dad, arrives perfectly to manage baby's bottles, and the nights shortened in steps to calibrate some nice sessions in the Basque country.
Meanwhile, when i'm not fishing, I trainee in waves less welcoming and more challenging to prepare for my next trip on a surf charter boat in the Moluccas islands, with a team of colleagues, where we gonna discover pristine reefs and unsurfed, swept by the powerful swells of the Pacific.
See you!
La Nord-Hossegor autumn 2011
What a fantastic start to the year: the weather is incredibly beautiful, and surf's up!
Siggi, 65, diabetic, former racing driver, thrills and spills amateur, has understood it very well.
He came to open the show in 2011 taking the first Authentique's courses of the year, those 7th and 8th of April.
Siggi has the ocean in the skin. Ask him if his age or his health will prevent him from surfing, you'll see the answer.
Until the next surf session, Siggi and his wife left to roam around the racing cirtcuits for them to profit of their technical knowledge. (www.brunnracing.com)
Soon in the water!
After spending a dreary automn weather and more than several months of recovery (due to a sprained neck), I took the opportunity, profiting i'm back in surfing, to go with a couple friends, Seb andYamna who is Moroccan, in the family of the latter, to Aourir between Taghazout and Agadir.
Morocco has experienced an epic winter non-stop watered by the huge swells of January and February, generated by the North Atlantic. Fortunately, I arrived in late February, and there are still some waves.
It is a known destination for all European surfers for the quality and diversity of its waves, and the milder climate found there in winter.
I arrive to Aourir and know an hospitality without equal in the family Boussaid. Moroccans are known for their hospitality, but it is difficult to get an idea as we had not lived it.
The Boussaid are good ambassadors. In the small house they occupy a modest three-room, we are not less than 13 people to sleep: the three sisters and four brothers of Yamna (the 5th, the eldest, being at sea for work), her husband Seb, her cousin, her parents and myself. Despite the overcrowding, I feel at ease, probably thanks to the kindness and simplicity of those people who appreciate, celebrate and share what they have.
This sense of hospitality is supported by 5 to 6 tasty and balanced meals (provided you ignore the amount of sugar in beverages) served copiously. "Hachtet" (eat) is the Berber word that I heard most, and I wouldnt have to dishonor the kitchen of the lovely Ms. Boussaid, with whom I had took 5 kg in 20 days.
Fortunately we have the surf to clear a little. We started with a small session at the Anchor Point, the most famous spot arround, which offers long straight ride, albeit a bit windy, but it's nice to have the surf that much open, and so easy!
The following days we surfed Killer Point, more consistent with the small swell. The wind is still in the game, as to not perfect these moments of pure pleasure. The wave is very long and powerful, and placed in a beautiful setting down red cliffs marking this very fishy cape, where transit sometime killer whales, hence the name of the spot.
The swell still lower, we go visit some 'secret spots' in the south of Agadir, more exposed. We surfed often Tamri, a sandy beach which picks up any swell, and offer me a nice tube between the swirling currents.
Between all these "break points", the sandy beaches usually offer perfect conditions for beginners. We see there families and surfcamps sharing waves easy and ideal. I take this opportunity to introduce Halima, the youngest sister, whois taking now a boundless enthusiasm for surfing. Her second eldest brother, Ibrahim, seeing this, just tried too, and is completely conquered now. He had lived a tumultuous youth more than the rest of his family, through painful experiences and knowing a few problems with law. We really became good friends with Ibrahim, and I felt he found in surfing a source of inspiration, and physical and spiritual elevation. This confirms my love for this sport and my need to share it.
Morocco is a magical country for who knows how to open his heart and soul. The people are real, landscapes beautiful, culture is extraordinarily rich, and it's a real surfers paradise. There is a wide variety of waves to suit all tastes and all levels.
The kind of experience that helps make your life a masterpiece!
You'll see me there again for sure, inch allah!
A big thank you to the Boussaid who welcomed me as if I was adopted like the sixth son of their family.
contact: contact@authentique-ecoledesurf.com -
